Travel Tips

Ask the Locals Travel Guide: Irvington, Hampton Roads & Northern Neck, Virginia

Sunset pierPeter is broadcasting his radio show from The Tides Inn located in the coastal town of Irvington, on Virginia’s northern neck.

Bordered by the Chesapeake Bay, the Potomac River, and the Rappahannock River, this peninsula boasts a rich maritime history, miles of shorelines, and a thriving wine industry.

We talked to some of the locals to find out what they like best about this off-the-beaten-path region:

Patrick Evans Hylton, Editor, Virginia Wine Lover Magazine

Virginia has had a love affair with food and wine for some 400 years. In fact, you can consider the early colonists as English-speaking America’s first foodies.

Virginia, also for food loversJournals from Captain John Smith and others wax poetic about the abundant fish and oysters; native Thomas Jefferson was a true culinary cheerleader, holding lavish dinners at the White House and at his Monticello home, cellaring vintages, and spending more than $11,000 (that’s about $175,000 today) on wine during his two terms as president.

Although colonists and Jefferson failed to make European-style wine with the local grapes, they still popularized winemaking in this region. There are more than 150 wineries in the state, with eight wineries located near Irvington: Athena, Belle Mount, The Hague, Hummel, Ingleside, Oak Crest, Vault Field, and White Fences.

Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail logoWine enthusiasts can explore these wineries and beyond along the Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail, one of 12 wine trails in the state.

Most wineries are small operations, so picnicking along the way really gets you in touch with the “real” Virginia. Think wooden picnic tables, dogs ambling over to make new friends, and staff members speaking with a sugary accent. Because wineries are so intimate, chances are the person pouring the wine may be the owner or winemaker, and they’re often willing to open up the vineyards for a stroll or a picnic.

Want more vineyard adventures? Try Wine Boot Camp. Or check out some Interactive Wine Tours.

If you’re looking for some typically Virginian treats for your picnic, look for salty peanuts from Blue Crab Bay Co., Everona Piedmont sheep’s milk cheese, or Virginia-style country ham from Edward’s. Of course, river and bay oysters and soft-shell blue crab are also must-haves when visiting this area.

If venturing down into Hampton Roads some great restaurants to get a flavor of the region include:

  • Croc’s 19th Street Bistro, an “eco-bistro” with an extensive wine list and Mediterranean-influenced cuisine.
  • Stove – The Restaurant, located in Portsmouth, features down-home cuisine sourced from local and sustainable farms.
  • Terrapin Restaurant is an elegant little spot hidden away from the commercial spots on Virginia Beach, featuring fresh seafood and locally sourced produce.

Find out more about Virginia’s food and wine scene on Patrick’s blog, www.patrickevanshylton.com

Bonnie Dawson, Volunteer, Historic Christ Church 1735

Steamboat theaterBecause the northern neck is located on a peninsula, this part of the world tends to be very insular. In fact, the first bridge wasn’t built until 1927, so for a long time the only link to the outside world was via steamboats. The Steamboat Era Museum pays homage to those days of yore, featuring oral histories, miniatures and woodcarvings.

About a 30-minute drive from Irvington in the town of Reedville is the Reedville Fisherman’s Museum, dedicated to preserving the history of Chesapeake Bay watermen. Permanent displays include maritime artifacts and actual fishing vessels, including a 42-foot restored skipjack that sets sail every other Saturday through October 31.

Get more experiences like these in our Museums section.

In Lancaster County is the Mary Ball Washington Museum and Library, named after George Washington’s mother who was born just a few miles away. This complex of historic buildings is also the site of the county’s genealogical records. As the story goes, during the Civil War, most counties moved their records in the capital city of Richmond.

Green forestBut when people from Lancaster headed toward Richmond, they saw the Confederate capital city on fire, turned right back around and headed home with the records. Consequently, the library holds the timelines of many families that began their lives in the Virginia colony as far back as the 17th century.

Virginia’s northern neck isn’t all about museums and history. Belle Isle State Park is a favorite local spot for camping, hiking, hunting, and fishing, and even offers moonlight kayaking when the weather is warm.

Head a little further afield to the tiny town of Urbanna, home to Virginia’s famous Oyster Festival. Taking place November 6 and 7, visitors and locals can celebrate oysters in every possible fashion—fried, frittered, raw, roasted, smoked, and steamed—along with other regional treats, oyster shucking contests, parades and other events.

Dick Wilson, President, Steamboat Era Museum

Christ Church 1735The Historic Christ Church 1735 is a wonderful example of the region’s colonial history. It has stood in the same place for more than 300 years—the original wood structure was completed in 1670, and the brick building we see today was erected by 1735, and was considered the finest Anglican parish church in colonial Virginia. More than a place of worship, is a beautiful representation of craftsmanship and architecture.

Visitors can celebrate Irvington’s maritime history by chartering a boat or yacht for fishing or sailing. For example, Vintage Yacht Tours offers guided excursions on vintage boats, with regular events such as the all-you-can-eat crab cruise, and a “whiskey run” to the quaint town of Urbanna.

And don’t overlook Virginia’s famous historic sites that are located within a short drive from Irvington. One of America’s most historic byways is the Colonial Parkway, which offers 23 miles of incredibly scenic forest views, stretching from the York River in Yorktown to the James River in Jamestown, and connecting to the ever-popular Colonial Williamsburg.

By Sarika Chawla for PeterGreenberg.com.

More Virginia-area travel adventures:

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