Sixty miles south of Lake Bafa is one of the most popular destinations along the Aegean — the port city of Bodrum. Its two scenic bays are separated by the majestic Bodrum Castle, which was erected in the 1400s by the crusading knights of St. John. But one of the most interesting ancient sites on this peninsula is far off the tourist track. My guide is Deniz Kiliç. And he took me to the Gebe Kilise, a tomb with a view. Hidden Aegean is now airing on PBS. Check your local listings.