I’m stopping in Seoul en route to do a story in Bangkok, which coincided with Obama’s visit today.
I first came here in 1979 and certain things remain, like the DMZ, not far from Seoul.
In 1979, when I first visited, it was described as the most dangerous place on earth … and that description could still be true when you think that the 3-mile strip of land separating the two Koreas is jammed with troops, guard posts, tanks, missiles, and bunkers. And it’s a great tour to boot.
I still have a photo taken of me inside the joint security area of 
Panmunjeom, with North Korean guards staring ominously at me from outside a window 10 feet away as I stood with one foot on either side of the line that literally runs along the floor that separates north and south. And today, 30 years later, it’s exactly the same.
And yet, it can be argued that few things are the same in Seoul. Some things are staggering, like the unbelievable development at Songdo, an amazing new city being built near the airport in Incheon.
And speaking of the airport, for those of us who remember the old Kimpo airport (still being used for regional flights), Incheon is an amazing facility, along with Singapore, Hong Kong and the new Bangkok airport. The Koreans deserve kudos for a facility that really works.
Want more tips on traveling in Korea? Check out Suzy Gershman’s Postcard from Seoul.
The food in Seoul is no longer limited to spicy kimchi. The highlight of the trip for me has been a late-night dinner visit to the main fish market. It’s called Noryangjin, and this huge covered market is open until midnight (and reopens at 4 a.m.). It’s been around for more than 76 years, and chances are, you can find every type of fish here. Almost everything for sale in this market is alive, and is flown in from all over the world.
One of the delicacies is eating live squid (I passed), and ALL of us passed on the fermented skate (that was an easy choice). But then came a great, memorable and affordable meal: For my dinner with friends, we selected a 7-pound lobster from Canada, a number of Alaska king crabs, scallops from Spain, oysters from New Zealand, and clams from Japan.
Once selected, the seafood—all still alive—was put in plastic bags and then we carried the bags downstairs to a restaurant that gladly grilled everything for us. Total cost of all that seafood for eight people: $160. Total cost for the restaurant to cook and serve it, and for a unlimited supply of surprisingly good Korean beer: $40.
Obama and the White House press corps are wheels up in 10 hours, headed back to Andrews Air Force Base. I’m leaving about the same time … for Bangkok. More when I land.
By Peter Greenberg
DMZ photo credit: Karl I. Muller
