Travel Tips

Off the Brochure Travel Guide: Antwerp, Belgium

Locations in this article:  Brussels, Belgium

Antwerp, or Antwerpen, BelgiumAntwerp, Belgium, a small but vibrant port city known for Pieter Paul Rubens, diamonds, and avant-garde fashion, is rich with a prosperous past and a glowing future.

A relaxed city built for wandering, Antwerp is surprisingly small and easy to navigate.

Every step brings you to a new part of town filled with winding streets, architectural gems and bargains begging to be discovered.

AROUND CENTRAAL STATION

Arriving in Antwerp’s Centraal Station is a bit like showing up to church, as the cathedral-sized train station is a masterpiece on every level.

Directly west of the station along De Keyserlei, Antwerp’s diamond headquarters pepper the streets—with a low profile maintained consistently through the years by Hasidic Jewish families. Diamondland, a massive diamond showroom, claims to have the largest diamond shop in town. During the week you can watch the diamond cutters at work. Diamondland, Appelmansstraat 33A, 03-229-29-90, www.diamondland.be

After just re-opening in November 2007, the newly restored Vlaamse Opera (Flemish Opera House) finally sings again. With opulent interiors and excellent productions by the Koninklijke Vlaamse Opera (Royal Flemish Opera), these operas are definitely worth a visit. Frankrijklei 3, 03-233-66-85

Caffenation takes every aspect of coffee seriously, in a fun and artsy cafe. Pay your respects to the painted portrait “Cher Guevera,” as the barista grinds, tamps and creates your latte art with expert precision. With ’60s jazz tracks or old-school James Brown in the background, Caffenation serves outrageously good coffee, with a whole lot of soul. You might find everything you need right here … except for diamonds. But you can ask for a diamond shaped latte design—and savor every drop. Hopland 46; 0486-323-015

FROM RUBENSHUIS TO THE GROTE MARKT

Grote Markt AntwerpClimb inside the mind of a genius and take a practical walk through history with a tour of Pieter Paul Rubens’ former mansion and studio. Antwerp was home and inspiration to this great 17th century Baroque artist—where he spent his most prolific days lining the city with his creations. This museum is free on Fridays along with all municipal museums (but closed on Mondays). Wapper 9-11; 03-201-15-55, https://museum.antwerpen.be/rubenshuis

Grand Café Horta pays ultimate tribute to Art Nouveau leader Victor Horta, by recycling the original wrought iron girders rescued from Horta’s “Masion du Peuple” (House of the People), demolished in Brussels in 1965. Proud and loud in bright yellow—this is a very clever re-design and a lively place to sip a Trappist Westmalle beer. Originally created as a house of the people, history repeats itself as this congregation is always buzzing. Hopland 2; 03-232-28-15, www.grandcafehorta.be

Although Antwerp and Brussels differ greatly, frites are frites … and as long as you’re in Belgium you are in for a treat. Follow the wide shopping boulevard Meir to the busiest corner of the Groenplaats (“Green Place”), and grab a cup of frites from Fritkot Max. Try the andalouse or the curry mayonnaise to accompany this ever-Belgian delicacy.

Cathedral in AntwerpMake sure to stroll by the Renaissance-style stadhuis (town hall) and the guildhalls around the Grote Markt (pictured above), and stop in the illuminated Onze Lieve Vrouwekathedraal (Our Lady’s Cathedral, at left) to worship Rubens’ beloved paintings. If the crowds are too large (since these landmarks are very much ‘on the brochure’), head for the circular stained glass windows by A. Janssens—you might find your mouth agape basking in the celestial artistry. www.dekathedraal.be

THE FASHION DISTRICT

Although Antwerp is still a very successful port—the most famous export of the moment is actually fashion.

In the fashion district, high-end boutiques have become the most frequently worshiped “cathedrals”—all thanks to the Antwerp Six, a 1980s group of Fashion Academy graduates who took the design world by storm. Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, and Walter Van Beirendonck are three of the six designers from this group. Visit Van Noten’s Het Modepaleis, to witness the grand scale of his designs that influenced this Belgian movement. Modepaleis, Kammenstraat and Nationalestraat 16, 03-470-25-10

For more local travel information, visit our France & Belgium travel section.

Momu LogoTo browse a designer collection that you won’t be tempted to buy, visit MoMu, The ModeMuseum of Antwerp, that houses an extensive collection filled with Belgian avant-garde greats. With interactive displays and rotating exhibitions, this museum is a must see even for the fashion un-inclined. Grab a soup at Den Roskam, a hidden lunch spot on the corner of the Vrijtagmarkt (weekly Friday market). MoMu, Nationalestraat 28, 03-470-27-70, www.momu.be

For the practical shopper in Antwerp, there are plenty of options for finding designer samples, unique boutiques and second-hand shops. Try Labels Inc., a tiny boutique with Belgian and European designer pieces for a fraction of the price. If these prices are still too high, Pardaf offers second-hand designer brands that are very reasonable. With three well-organized and spacious floors dedicated to clothing, shoes and accessories for women, men and children—shopping here is made easy. They even have a play area for kids. 03-232-6040. Episode, a vintage clothing wonderland, also has many fashionable options for affordable prices. Labels, Inc. 4 Aalmoezenierstraat, 03-232-60-56, Pardaf, Gemeentestraat 8, Episode, Steenhouwersvest 34a, 03-234-34-14.

Café Costume is a company dedicated to the renaissance of creating “a la carte” custom suits for men, without spending a fortune. Measurements can be taken at Café Costume or in your hotel, with a selection of suit patterns that reflect your personal sense of style. They promise not to cost an arm and a leg, for, as they say, “You’ll need them at the fitting.” Emiel Banningstraat 11; 03-257-30-02, www.cafecostume.com

A little shoe store with a lot of thought, Georgette caters to those who don’t want to compromise, but still want to look stylish. With creatively designed shoes and accessories made with eco-conscious and animal friendly materials— even your wallet might do a happy shoe dance. Steenhouwersvest 15, 03-289-96-39, www.georgette.be

For feeding in fashion central, try Lombardia, the wacky organic food cafe that is great for all things good for you. Sip a ginger tea on the terrace to spot all of Antwerp’s fashionistas line up for a vitamin packed lunch. A bit pricey, but expect monster portions. The sandwich might dwarf the plate. Lombardenvest 78, 03- 233-68-19

ZURENBORG

Cogels OsyleiZurenborg is just southeast of the city center (past Centraal Station) but is a different world in character and architectural design to the rest of Antwerp. Separated by the railway to the Netherlands, the southern part of the neighborhood, Cogels-Osy, boasts a unique and exquisite collection of architectural styles making this one of the loveliest spots in Antwerp. The houses in this area were built in the 19th century as part of an architectural development project— showcasing a variety of popular architectural styles of the time, with each neighbor trying to outdo the next. The Art Nouveau houses stand out in detail and design—with intricate murals, swirling wrought iron balconies and impressive stained glass.

The northern half of Zurenborg, with an entirely different flair, houses Dageraadplaats—the central square connecting ten neighborhood streets. A lively and open space with an excellent choice of cafes and restaurants, this is the place to be—where the multicultural neighborhood thrives and people of all ages come together. With a number of bars and restaurants spilling out onto the square, and a playground for kids—this is where the locals hold court.

Sit on the terrace of artsy neighborhood pub ‘T Zeezicht and sip a Duvel beer and watch the evening unfold. Upstairs, Den Overvloed is a simple spot both in décor and menu options. A local favorite, it literally feels like you’re in a local’s living room. They don’t take reservations, but it’s worth the wait. ‘T Zeezicht, Dageraadplaats 7-8, 03-235-10-65, Den Overvloed, Dageraadplaats 7-8, 03-235-52-41

Resting near both the railway to and from Holland and the Berchem tramline, Wattman seems almost stuck in time— a magical little respite somewhere in-between “coming and going.” With mismatched vintage chairs and tiny tables, savor a beer and relax before heading back to the city. Closed on Monday. Tramplein 3 (corner of at the corner of the Cogels Osylei and Tramplein) www.wattman.be

ANTIQUING AND BEYOND

KloosterstraatFor an adventurous treasure hunt head to Kloosterstraat, Antwerp’s colorful and eclectic antique thoroughfare, lined with shops selling everything from 1970s Italian modern furniture to Victorian-era faucets, to antique toys. Shopping imaginations run wild here—this is window-shopping is at its prime. Unlike most of Antwerp, shops on Kloosterstraat are open Sundays when most retailers in the city are closed.

To taste traditional Belgian Stoemp met Worst (mashed potatoes and sausage), stumble into Dansing Chocola, a cozy spot to taste some Belgian specialties. In summer sit out on the patio, sip a cafe and window shop from your seat. Klooseterstraat 159, 03-237-19-05.

Take a walk along the waterfront to witness Antwerp’s port, and stop in for a Greek treat at Mezze Café Varelli. “Mezze” in Greek are like Spanish tapas, or antipasti in Italian. In this small charming café, sit outside (or inside among old photos of Greek locals) and try a few specialty “mezze of the house.” With melitzana fourno (eggplant with feta), souvlakia, (marinated and grilled pork) and tyropita (phyllo dough and cheese), you can’t go wrong and probably won’t need an entrée. Celebrate like a Greek over your recent antique acquisitions with ouzo in hand. Plantinkaai 15, 03-485-88-82, www2.resto.be/varelli/

FOR ADVENTURERS ONLY

Sint Anna TunnelFor an underground adventure, head north on Plantinkaii to Jans Vliet Square where the Sint Anna Tunnel awaits to funnel you deep within the bowels of Antwerp.

The river Scheldt divides Antwerp into two parts—the old city center and the newer Linkeroever (Left Bank). Built to bridge a growing Antwerp in the early 1930s, the Sint Anna Tunnel is a perfectly preserved Art Deco masterpiece—futuristic and spooky.

Follow the creaky wooden escalator down deep underneath the city and river. This is not for the claustrophobic or vertically challenged—as this is about 100 feet down to the tunnel and around a 10-minute walk through the white ceramic tiled tunnel beneath the River Scheldt.

Shoot for sunset and witness that golden Belgian glow sweep across Antwerp’s magnificent skyline.

By Margaret Emery for PeterGreenberg.com. Margaret Emery lived, worked, and developed a mild frites addiction in Belgium last year.

Planning a trip to Belgium? You’ve got to check out the Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide to Brussels, Belgium.

Looking for more great online travel guides? Here’s the rest of the Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide Series.

Want to get a taste of Belgium before you even get there? Check out this footage that Margaret Emery shot of Brussels and its environs during the yearly Ommegang festival: