Travel Tips
Do’s and Don’ts For Travel Antiquing
The term “souvenir” comes from the French word for a memory or remembrance, but for most travelers, those keepsake items are usually along the lines of Union Jack socks or an Eiffel Tower key chain.
However, with a little digging, you can come home with something you cherish that that also reflects centuries of history.
Jewelry-maker Elizabeth Sayles regularly travels to London, Paris and Belgium collecting other people’s memories in the form of watch fobs, religious jewelry, Victorian lockets, and bits and pieces of decades past.
She recombines these into modern pieces for her jewelry line, Harlow, which can be seen on television shows like Grey’s Anatomy and Private Practice.
Sayles, who began her career in fashion, grew up in a family with deep roots in the antique trade and is well-versed in history. She moved to Los Angeles to work at a friend’s boutique, but when that business failed she had to do some fast thinking.
“I went online and taught myself how to wire wrap, took a box of antiques I had, and just started creating things. I wasn’t sure if they would sell or not, but I put out a table at the Melrose Farmers Market and at the end of the day, my last customer bought the whole table-full.”
After she sold her first batch, Sayles had trouble finding more quality antiques in the United States that were not horribly overpriced. “The West coast didn’t have the quality, and the East coast (like New England and Charleston, South Carolina) had the quality but at very high prices.” So Sayles went straight to the source: Europe.
According to Elizabeth, Britain has the largest selection of high-end antiques. However, finding real treasures is trickier than you’d think. Like most antique hunters, she started out strolling along the famous Portobello Road—not the path she encourages others to follow. “Buyer, beware! Portobello Road is a gypsy haven of antique dealers. They lie all the time and make up dates. I saw that happen a lot when I was there.”
To those who want the traditional Portobello Road experience, she advises “Do not invest in major pieces there unless you have an antique dealer friend with you to make sure you won’t be ripped off, and that what you’re buying is authentic.”
American travelers don’t garner much respect among these dealers—if you are not a regular, they will assume you don’t know your antiques and may try to take advantage.
However, not all vendors are out to scam tourists. Sayles shares her recommendations for markets in Europe where you can find authentic antiques for reasonable prices:
The Bermondsey Square Antique Market in Southwark, London, is open from 5 a.m. to 12 p.m. on Fridays. The early starting hour is supposedly because of “market overt,” a medieval law stating that stolen goods could be sold and the ownership legally transferred to the buyer between sunrise and sunset at certain markets.
Bermondsey is the largest flea market in London, with wares ranging from china dolls to jewelry and navigational apparatus. To find the best quality pieces, get there early, but if you are looking for a deal on what the early birds miss, get there around 11 a.m. when vendors want to sell what is left of their stock.
The Saint-Ouen flea market is said to be the largest antiques market in the world, and possibly the first flea market ever, dating from the 17th century. The marché aux puces is open from 7 a.m.-2 p.m. on weekends and Mondays, but again, go early, between 5 a.m. and 6 a.m. for the best finds.
Porte-de-Vanves and Porte de Montreuil are smaller flea markets on the southern and eastern sides of Paris and are known for their second-hand clothes and fashion accessories like handbags, and for smaller items like old postcards. Vanves is open from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. on weekends, and Montreuil’s hours are from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. from Saturday through Monday. Get your pan au chocolate and coffee early, because the good stuff goes fast.
The Eurantica antique fair is the largest art and antiques fair in Belgium and takes place every May at the Brussels Exhibition Centre. This is no flea market—Eurantica showcases over a hundred leading antique dealers and art galleries throughout Western Europe, and they are encouraged to create sumptuous displays. The price of admission is €15 (about $20), and the hours are Friday-Sunday 11 a.m.-7 p.m., and Monday from 2 p.m.-10 p.m.
Tongeren, Belgium
The flea market in Tongeren, the oldest city in Belgium, is Sayles’ favorite. Here you’ll find Art Deco items, old books, and interesting miscellaneous junk. Open on Sundays from 5 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
Before you head into the labyrinths of the flea markets, here’s some advice: Don’t carry a purse or jewelry with you because you will attract pickpockets. Sayles says “You don’t want to advertise that you have money. I go dressed like a hobo and hide money in the bottoms of my shoes and in my bra.”
When buying antiques, the rule of thumb is Buyer Beware. If you’re just looking to snag a few cute items to make your friends envious of your fashion-savvy, then buy what appeals to you at a price you think fair. But if you’re tempted by a Victorian emerald and diamond brooch, be sure to ask about its history and whether it has a certificate of authenticity or other paperwork that says where it is from. Is it damaged? Does the seller offer any guarantees?
Now that you know where to look—what should you be looking for? If you go for odds and ends, you might be able to get a deal, and with a little creativity you could end up with some very unique pieces.
Sayles often combines different bits and pieces into one necklace, like Victorian mourning lockets, bridle rosettes from race horses, and Edwardian watch chains. “When you combine different things, they begin to tell a story. I find beauty in everything, from sterling Art Deco straight-edged razors to Etruscan lockets. I recently got a bunch of sterling baby spoons from Paris. They are magnificent. I think I am going to use them on necklaces.”
One simple thing she says anyone can do is collect a few special items and put them on a chain, or attach them onto a simple beaded necklace.
“I love telling the histories of the pieces to people, whether they are looking to buy or not,” says Sayles, who can usually be found sharing the stories behind her jewelry at various Los Angeles Farmers Markets. “Antiques bring every walk of life, every personality, every religion together. Muslims will pick up a rosary, Christians will buy a Star of David; it doesn’t matter. It’s all about the historical value of the jewelry, and it becomes a common history that everyone can relate to. It gives me chills … the history of the world.”
Sayles Harlow line of jewelry can be found in retail stores such as Barney’s, Rocks at Fred Segal Santa Monica and Beckley, as well as from her site, www.esayles.com.
Los Angeles Central Library Certified Farmers’ Market, Wednesdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. 650 W. 5th Street between Grand & Flower
Bank of America Plaza CFM, Fridays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 333 South Hope Street at 3rd Street)
Melrose Place CFM, Sundays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Melrose Place between Croft Ave. and Orlando Avenue
By Lauren Van Mullem for PeterGreenberg.com.
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