Shamrocks, leprechauns and green rolling hills are just a few of the images that have come to symbolize Ireland.
Part of the aptly named “Emerald Isles,” this island nation has survived a tumultuous past and is still in the process of rapid growth, change and renewal.
Its culture is a melting pot of Celts, Normans, Jews, Huguenots, and Scandinavians, giving it a unique character and history.
Dublin is a cosmopolitan city that boasts cobbled streets lined with architectural marvels and lively music spilling out of seemingly every nook.
So join the Dubliners in a quick-paced jig off the beaten path and discover just what makes the Irish so lucky.
EMERALD-GREEN SPACES
With a relatively small central core, Dublin an ideal destination for visitors. Its main sights and attractions are located within a small area which makes it a great city to explore on foot. While you walk, take time to enjoy the architecture. An excellent blend of old, new and renovated buildings line the busy streets.
Dublin’s well-landscaped and maintained parks and open spaces, such as the famous St. Steven’s Green, are a great source of pride for locals. Head in for a relaxing afternoon walk, and keep your eye out for small, hidden parks which can be quite a treat to stumble upon.
On a warm day, pack a picnic and stroll along the banks of the Liffey River, which flows through the center of Dublin. You’ll get a great view of the city, and a better understanding of its layout and flow.
North of the river lies Phoenix Park, composed of almost 2,000 acres of space with a zoo and a racetrack. This area is renowned as the second-largest enclosed park in the world, second only to Yellowstone National Park. Within its grounds you will find ornamental gardens, nature trails, broad expanses of grassland, and plenty of wildlife grazing on the pastures.
CULTURAL IMMERSION
To really get in on Irish sporting action, head to Croke Park, home of the Gaelic Games and headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA). This stadium has been at the core of Irish sporting life for more than 100 years, and boasts a capacity for more than 82,000 people. All kinds of sports are available to spectators, including those uniquely Irish pastimes such as Hurling. The park is located in central Dublin, just about a 15 minute walk from other main sights and attractions. www.crokepark.ie/
If you prefer the indoors, drop into the Irish Film Institute, housed in a converted Quaker meeting house, to enjoy a screening of current films as well as special screenings are offered. www.irishfilm.ie
Dublin’s most avant garde theater company, The Project, has served as the former home of a long list of notable directors, actors, and musicians including Jim Sheridan, Liam Neeson, U2, and Gabriel Byrne. Centrally located in the Temple Bar Area, Project Arts Centre presents the best in contemporary Irish and International Theatre, Dance, Music and Visual Arts while seeking to promote and support the city’s creative minds. 39 East Essex Street; 353-1-881 9613-14, www.project.ie
PUBS AND GRUB
One of the best ways to experience the local flair of Dublin as well as its unique nightlife is to spend an evening at a local pub. Irish people are notoriously friendly, so it won’t be hard to strike up a conversation. Just sit down and order a drink at a neighborhood pub, and you’ll be chatting a way in no time. Whether you plop down at an old favorite for the night or join other visitors in a lively “pub crawl” this experience can be one of the most memorable you will have.
Look for the mural on the street, then duck into the alley and follow the path to Stag’s Head. This old-time pub dates from 1770 and was later rebuilt in 1895. Boasting an elegant Victorian style interior complete with an unusual Connemara red marble bar, it is home to theater-goers from the nearby Olympia and a slew of Trinity students. Live music is often on offer, making for a great night at the neighborhood pub. 1 Dame Court; 353-1-01-679-3701.
If you’re looking for a hearty serving of pub grub to go with your pint, join Trinity students at O’Neil’s. The food, reminiscent of what you would be served at a traditional Sunday dinner, is cheap, and the portions are huge. 37 Pearse Street; 353-1-677 5213.
Porterhouse Brewing Company serves a range of beers brewed in-house and exclusive to the company. Three stouts, three ales and three lagers are on offer nightly, many of which are international award winners. Great live music from a constantly changing lineup is usually part of the night. www.porterhousebrewco.com/templebar.html
Cafe en Seine offers a great mix of entertainment and dining options in a tastefully decorated interior. The clientele is a bit uppity, and in fact, it’s said that there have been more English footballers here than you’ll ever find in a Chelsea team. Choose from a menu of tasty paninis for lunch or visit on Sunday afternoons when the cafe transforms into one of Dublin’s best jazz venues. 40 Dawson Street; 353-1-6774369
Kiely’s of Mount Merrion offers a full dinner menu nightly and offers live music, with special gigs posted online. If you have a love for athletics, join other Dublin locals to watch live sport which is shown here almost every night of the week. www.kielys.com/gigs/
For a more intimate, low-key evening, turn to Dawson Lounge, known as Dublin’s smallest pub. Walking down the street you could easily miss it, but take the time to seek it out. It seats only about 20, but is always full of lively characters that ensure that a night spent there will be truly special. 25 Dawson Street; 353-1-6775909
GETTING IRISH JIGGY WITH IT
Music of all styles including classical, traditional, and modern is one of the central aspects of Irish life. Live music is at the center of Irish life. You will find it in venues throughout the city from formal concerts in concert halls, theaters, and churches, to informal gigs in restaurants, pubs, and music centers. Regardless of which you fancy, a taste of these Irish melodies that will keep you humming all the way home.
For a relaxing evening, settle into a booth at JJ Smyth’s. This traditional, worn-in jazz venue is a regular stop for Louis Stewart, the grandfather of Irish jazz. 12 Aungier Street; 353-1-475-2565
Organ recitals are offered and open to the public in the Pro-Cathedral and St. Patrick’s Cathedral during lunchtimes in the summer. Both feature Irish and international artists. This is a great way to fit in a trip to one of Dublin’s famous cathedrals and take in the traditional church architecture while enjoying a working sample of the acoustics.
The summer concert series at St. Michael’s church, Dun Laoghaire, is renowned, hosting prominent organists from Ireland and abroad. The concerts are held Sunday evenings from late September to early June.
Towering over the Dublin mountains from its lookout in Glencullen, Johnnie Fox’s is one of Ireland’s oldest traditional pubs. Famous for being the highest pub in the country, locals and tourists alike are happy to make the 25-35 minute drive from Dublin City Center to be part of action. Live Irish music flows from the venue seven nights a week and weekend afternoons. In addition, reserve ahead and catch their renowned Irish dance show, choreographed by Belinda Murphy of the original Riverdance. www.jfp.ie/index.htm
Walton’s Music School in Dublin’s south city offers beginning level instructional courses and workshops to both locals and tourists in bodhran and tin whistle as well as offering intensive courses in most traditional instruments. Drop by for a class, and you could go home with a new Irish hobby. 69 South Great George’s Street; www.newschool.ie
BEYOND THE SPUD
Although Ireland may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of the ultimate “foodie” destination, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to learn that Ireland is in the middle of a budding culinary rebirth. Young Irish chefs have been making headlines for their innovative mix of traditional methods and contemporary flare.
Both sleek and refined, The Clarendon has quickly become one of the best places to eat in Dublin. The restaurant serves innovative contemporary Irish cuisine, and offers. Try updates on old favorites such as bangers and mash or cod and chips. 32 Clarendon Street; 353-1-6792909, www.clarendon.ie/about.html
Many Dubliners and tourists alike claim Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud is the “best of the best.” The winner of several international awards, this elegant restaurant focuses on modern cuisine using only the freshest and finest of Irish produce and ingredients. 21 Upper Marrion Street; 353-1-676-4192
For those on a little tighter budget, Bang Café offers a similarly high standard of new haute cuisine for less. 11 Merrion Row; 353-1-676-0898
Although there are enough new culinary temptations to keep you satisfied all through your trip, you simply can’t go home with at least one taste of an old classic. To get your feed of Dublin’s famous fish and chips grab a take-away feast from Burdocks across from the Christ Church Cathedral.
The line (as there will undoubtedly be one, sometimes stretching all the way down the street) is a mix of all kinds of people, each willing to wait for their turn to sample the fare. Local favorites include the specialty fresh or smoked cod and chips. 2 Werburg Street
By Alix Proceviat for PeterGreenberg.com.
Previously by Alix Proceviat:
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Vienna, Austria
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Tis the Season for Escaping to Europe
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: New Delhi, India
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Vancouver, Canada
Check out more great destinations with our Off the Brochure Travel Guide Series:
