Travel Tips

Off the Brochure: Tel Aviv, Israel

Tel AvivTel Aviv proper technically may be Israel’s second most populous city behind Jerusalem, but its metro area dwarfs that ancient city, and includes a large swath of Israel.

It’s a lively, modern, and increasingly cosmopolitan destination that, if it’s not on your travel list, should be.

Named after the utopian town envisioned by Zionist author Theodore Herzl in his turn-of-the century novel Altneuland (The Old-New Land), Tel Aviv certainly lives up to its lofty moniker. Founded in 1909 by the Jewish population of nearby Jaffa, Tel Aviv immediately became an immigration hotspot among both bourgeois Eastern European Jews and artists from all backgrounds.

Located on the scenic Mediterranean coastline, the Tel Aviv of today is still a hub of economic and creative activity in the Middle East: Browse the trendy shops lining several of its major streets or don your bathing suit and bronze on its beaches; spend some time visiting museums and historical sites or sip coffee in small cafes still populated by literary types. Come nightfall, Tel Aviv kicks up the energy a notch, with fine dining, music lounges, and nightclubs that rival those found in London, New York, and Paris.

MUSEUMS (Muze’onim)

Tel Aviv boasts several museums, including the sprawling Eretz Yisrael Museum, which sits atop an archaeological site that is still being excavated. While more on the brochure than off, and at times a bit crowded, this museum has something of interest for nearly everyone. Of its eight pavilions, the Glass Pavilion boasts one of the finest and most eye-catching collections of glassware in the world. Also worth stopping into is the Nehustan Pavilion, which, through its cave-like entryway, transports you into the ancient copper mines (or so it feels like) of Timna, otherwise known as King Solomon’s Mines.

Just across from the Nehustan Pavilion is the Kadman Numismatic Pavilion, in which a collection of coins spans the length of the region’s history. Finally, before you leave, be sure to check out the Man and his Work Center exhibition, where you can see the traditional tools used in agriculture, crafts, and household chores and walk through a reconstructed bazaar. The museum is located in Ramat Aviv, the northern most part of Tel Aviv. 972-3-641-5244, www.eretzmuseum.org.il

For a more off-the-brochure museum experience, visit the David Ben-Gurion House, once the private home of Israel’s first prime minister. Indulge your inner voyeur and peruse the books, pictures, and other personal items of Ben-Gurion for a more intimate window into Israeli history. Read letters from Ben-Gurion to John F. Kennedy, Winston Churchill, and Charles de Gaulle, and then head next door to the Hillel Cohen Lecture Hall to glimpse the late prime minister’s passports and salary slips. The on-site library has nearly 20,000 books in various languages; for those particularly interested in history and politics, seminars and lectures are conducted here as well. And as if that weren’t incentive enough, admission is free. 17 Ben-Guiron Ave.; 972-3-522-10-10

THE ARTS (Mad’ei Haruach)

More than probably any other Israeli city, Tel Aviv is a bastion of contemporary creative activity, and the performing arts are certainly no exception to this rule.

Suzanne Dellal CenterFor first-time visitors, a must-see is the Suzanne Dellal Center, located in the heart of the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. The complex became a strategic post of the Haganah (the Jewish army) during the Arab-Israeli of 1948. In 1989, the center was renovated and assumed its present form, offering more than 600 shows each year, mostly modern Israeli dance and percussion performances. 6 Yehieli St.; 972-3-510-5656.

The Cameri Theater is distinguished from other performance centers as the city’s so-called “theater of social responsibility.” Its somewhat controversial performances incorporate Israeli folklore, politics, and both traditional and contemporary Jewish values and concerns. Plays are usually presented in Hebrew or Yiddish, but on Tuesday nights there are productions with on-screen English translations. 101 Dizengoff Street; 972-3 523-3335, www.cameri.co.il

To get away from the crowds, check out the Tmuna Theater, a funky community performance space with more avant-garde performances that offer a uniquely local flavor. The shadowy venue offers a stage that showcases mostly local music groups, and a small theater space (think satires, dramas, and even quirky one-man shows) with just a few rows of seats nestled up against it. There is also a bar and a café so that you can wine and dine while you enjoy the performances. 8 Soncino Street, Montifiori; 03-562-9462.

SHOPPING (Kniyut)

The shopping in Tel Aviv is among the best in the world, featuring everything from large American-inspired malls, to street shopping and local flea markets where you can find great bargain buys. Generally speaking, the more ritzy shops can be found along Dizengoff Street and Sderot Nordau, while trendy (and only slightly less pricey) boutiques and jewelry stores line Sheinken Street.

Carmel MarketFor a more down-and-dirty shopping experience, head to the Shuk Ha-Carmel, located at the intersection of Allenby Road and King George Street. Street vendors line the road here, peddling inexpensive clothing, sandals, and other similar wares to passersby. Farther down Allenby Road, you can pick up fresh fruits and vegetables at rock-bottom prices from the many small street stands. Located very close by (parallel to Allenby and one block closer to the sea) is Nahalat Binyamin, where a local street fair boasting jewelry, paintings, pottery, and more is held each Tuesday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Similarly cheap shopping can be found nearby at Jaffa’s flea market, Shuk-Ha-Pishpeshim, which sits between Olei Tzion and Beit Eshel Streets. Merchants here offer Persian carpets, leather and brass goods, nargilah (water pipes), hand-dyed clothing, figurines, and the like from the several rows of roofed stalls. The market is busiest on Fridays and is closed on Sundays, so head there earlier in the week to put your haggling skills to the test.

Israel BookstoreFinally, shopping and the arts converge in Tel Aviv’s several specialty bookstores, where unique and even rare titles can be found on many different subjects and in numerous languages. One such bookstore is Bookworm, located in Basel Square, which offers an English-language selection that that covers architecture, design, psychotherapy, and more. 30 Basel Street, 972 3 546 2714.

Or, stop in Praza Modan on Dizengoff Street, a bookstore-café that specializes in theater and the arts, but also has many titles on travel and cooking, as well as a sizable selection of children’s books, available in both Hebrew and English. 163 Dizengoff Street.

DINING (Ochel)

For a good bite to eat, one place to head is the Florentine District in southern Tel Aviv, an artsy, up-and-coming neighborhood with many off-the-beaten-path restaurants. This neighborhood is not featured in many travel books or brochures, but it certainly should be: The largely un-renovated buildings comprise the largest collection of German Bauhaus architecture in the region, and it boasts many older factories and workshops, one of which now houses the Vital art school.

Two restaurants to try in this area are the Humus Bar and Café Vital. The latter is notable for its large outdoor patio, its great Israeli-style breakfasts, and its décor, which features works by local artists. 5 Florentine St.

Just on the edge of the Florentine District is Elimelech, a pub and restaurant populated almost exclusively by locals of Tel Aviv. Open since 1936, Elimelech offers Eastern European Jewish “soul food” like cholent, kishke, and breust (don’t worry, the menu includes English descriptions). A large selection of draught beer and reasonable prices add to this lively local haunt’s allure. 35 Wolfson, 972 3 681 3459.

Outside of the Florentine District, another place to try is Rabbi Yochanan, located on a side street just off of the Shuk-Ha-Pishpishim flea market and perfect for satiating the appetite you’ll work up while shopping. This unpretentious café is in fact furnished with wares from the flea market, all of which can be purchased by diners. The food, like the décor, is quite eclectic, but tends toward Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors.

All visitors to Tel Aviv should also make time to stop into the Abulafia Bakery on Yeffet Street in Jaffa. This Palestinian bakery has been in existence since 1879 and is open 24 hours a day. If you get there around 11 p.m., you’ll be sure to get your hands on pita, bagels, pizza, and other breads fresh out of the oven. Jews and Arabs alike flock to Abulafia, so it’s become a popular symbol of peaceful Jewish-Arab coexistence.

Finally, and in some contradistinction to these locales, is the well-known Cheech Beech, a trendy restaurant and bar best known for its oversized décor (think huge potted plants and oversized couches—a veritable living room on the beach) and fruity margaritas. 145 Hayarkon St.

BEACHES (Hahof)

Tel Aviv BeachStarting in the south and working toward the north of Tel Aviv, the major beaches of the region are Sheraton, Hilton, Gordon (the most touristy of the bunch), Frischmann, Trumpeldor, and the Jerusalem Beach, though the latter three are essentially one continuous beach. The Southern-most part of the coastline—before the major luxury hotel chains begin—tends to be less crowded, though this has changed now that the tayelet (boardwalk) extends all the way down to Jaffa.

The boardwalk itself is a bit of a tourist trap, but is nonetheless a fun daytime hangout. Plenty of great restaurants line the tayelet, and some of Tel Aviv’s most popular clubs are also located along it, with their festivities beginning as the sun sets on the Mediterranean seashore.

Catch some sun and shop ‘till you drop at the Herzliya Pituach Marina and Mall, both of which are much quieter and less touristy than similar places in central Tel-Aviv (Herliya is actually a suburb of Tel-Aviv located about 20 minutes north of the city).

While there, seek out “hermit” Nissim Kakhalon, the architect/inhabitant of the Hermit’s House, a sand castle-inspired dwelling built into the side of a cliff. Constructed using discarded toys, tires, and the like, this quaint seaside palace boasts winding tunnels, an entirely functional bathroom whose ceiling is made found from beer bottles, and charming, well-kept gardens. During the week, Kakhalon also runs a small café serving hummus and smoked fish. Open daily (except during Shabbat) from 9 p.m. to sundown, though hours are somewhat erratic.

DAY TRIPS (Tiyulim)

Bar Kochba Caves are known as the place where Jews hid and prepared for battle during the Great Revolt against the Romans in 132-135 C.E. In order to access their hiding places, they had to crawl through small, twisting passageways on their stomachs—something visitors today can try for themselves. The Bar Kochba Caves area overlooks the Dead Sea and has only been partially excavated at present. It boasts an ancient olive pressroom, a ritual bath or mikyah, a large water reservoir, and more.

Or, hop on a train in Tel Aviv and head north to Akko (the ride is about 90 minutes, but is quite pleasant). Akko is a walled port city located on the Mediterranean Sea with a rich history of conquest that is reflected in the contemporary local culture: This town has been controlled variously by the Greeks, the Egyptians, Middle Ages crusaders, Arabs, Turks, and even the British.

Take a cruise aboard a yacht in Akko’s scenic marina and explore its centuries-old underground crusader city. Before heading back to Tel Aviv, check out the Al-Jazzar Mosque, which dates to the glory days of the Ottoman Empire, and the Akko Citadel, which served as a prison during ancient times. To extend your trip yet bit longer, continue a short distance north to Akkois Kibbutz Lohamei Haghetaot, whose main draw is its impressive Holocaust museum, many of whose exhibits are geared toward children.

GETTING THERE

Many popular carriers including El Al (Israel’s national airline) fly into Ben-Gurion International Airport in Lod, located about 13 miles southeast of Tel Aviv, with shuttle buses making trips to and from the city every hour.

By Kellan Connor for PeterGreenberg.com.

Don’t miss the rest of our Off the Brochure Travel Guide series about the hidden gems of the world’s greatest cities.

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